A fondo: Análisis 2020 | In depth: Analysis of 2020 FuturEnviro | Diciembre 2020/Enero 2021 December 2020/January 2021 www.futurenviro.es 39 El sector del textil ha sufrido mucho este año. En un escenario en el que las ventas han caído más de un 40% la lucha por tomar ventaja y recuperar la cuota de mercado va a ser encarnizada. Las empresas del sector textil, con un 2020 espeluznante, han visto su tabla de salvación en la sostenibilidad y el medio ambiente. Pero ser respetuoso con el entorno, conseguir desacoplar el consumo del textil del perjuicio ambiental, necesita un cambio profundo. Uno holístico en toda su producción, uso y posterior reciclado y eliminación. Surgirá mucho “greenwashing”, “socialwashing”, etiquetas ecológicas y sellos ambientales “fast” que nada tienen que ver con el cambio necesario. Es por ello que va a ser indispensable saber discernir entre los cambios integrales no tan lustrosos que darán lugar a un sector textil más sano y los maquillajes que muchas marcas querrán usar para ganarse al consumidor. Los propios productores verán entre ellos con cierta suspicacia algunas iniciativas. La industria textil sigue siendo la segunda más contaminante del mundo. Según la ONU produce el 10% de las emisiones de carbono y el 20% de las aguas residuales del planeta. En España desconocemos qué cantidad de textil se pone en el mercado anualmente. De lo que sí disponemos, con un alto grado de representatividad estadística, es la cantidad que llega a vertedero. Aproximadamente 900.000 toneladas. La recogida de entidades sociales, mercantiles y logística inversa de algunas marcas no llega a cubrir ni un 10% de lo que se produce. Hace un año en estemismo espacio titulabami segunda tribuna sobre el textil como ““LA RESPONSABILIDAD AMPLIADA DEL PRODUCTOR EN The textile sector has suffered greatly this year. In a scenario in which sales have fallen by more than 40%, the fight to take the wheel and recover sales promises to be fierce. After a shocking 2020, companies in the textile sector have seen a lifeline in the form of sustainability and the environment. But being eco-friendly and breaking the link between textile consumption and environmental harm requires a profound change. A profound holistic change in the entire cycle of production, use, and subsequent recycling and disposal. There will be a lot of greenwashing, “socialwashing”, eco-labels and “fast” environmental seals that have nothing to do with the change that is needed. For this reason, it will be essential to be able to discern between the comprehensive and unglamorous changes that will lead to a healthier textile sector and the make-overs that many brands will use in a bid to win over consumers. Producers themselves will view certain initiatives with a certain amount of suspicion. The textile industry continues to be the second most polluting industry in the world. According to the UN, it produces 10% of the world’s carbon emissions and 20% of its wastewater. In Spain, we do not know how much textile is placed on the market every year.What we do know, with a high degree of statistical reliability, is the amount that goes to landfill. Approximately 900,000 tonnes. Textile collection carried out by social and commercial entities and the reverse logistics of some brands does not even cover 10% of what is produced. A year ago, in this same space, I titled my second article on textiles as “EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY IN THE TEXTILES SECTOR IS HERE TO STAY” and it is true. In fact, 2020 has made it even more necessary, if possible. That is why ECOTEXTIL has been proactively working ahead of the legislation for 4 years now, and the deadline is 2024. The national state administration, which is responsible for the legislation, must create a homogeneous nationwide regulatory framework that allows producers to comply EL MUNDO TEXTIL ESTA EN TRANSFORMACIÓN Y NECESITA LA RESPONSABILIDAD AMPLIADA DEL PRODUCTOR PARA QUE SEA COMPLETA Belén Vázquez de Quevedo Algora, Secretaria General ECOTEXTIL THE TEXTILES WORLD IS CHANGING AND NEEDS EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY TO COMPLETE THE CHANGE Belén Vázquez de Quevedo Algora, General Secretary at ECOTEXTIL There is a lot of work to be done that does not result in gaining more followers, that does not generate content for high-impact marketing campaigns and that no instagrammers or youtubers will mention to their millions of followers. In principle
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