Recover varieties to elaborate wines 'only', the challenge of Terras Gauda

The work results of special interest if it takes into account that the grape Caíño white, autochthonous of the subzona of Or Rosebush, ascribed to the D.Or. Estuaries Baixas, is the less productive and scarce of the Galician white varieties, although it contributes good structure and body to the wines, something that confirms Emilio Rodríguez Canas, technical director of Cellars Terras Gauda. “In addition to being the only variety of Estuaries Baixas that only cultivates in the Valley of Or Rosebush, as all the exceptional varieties to world-wide level, his crop is not easy. The Caíño white is very sensitive to the illnesses and his production is scarce and late. In fact, it is the last that vendimiamos, with the risks that this comports. However, like sucede with the best varieties, the Caíño white contributes to the wines untuosidad, a lot of body and structure as well as a long end of mouth”, explains.

Cellars Terras Gauda produces near of 90% of the Caíño white of the D.Or. Estuaries Baixas, although in 70% of his hectares plant Albariño. The fact to have of this 90% of the production has made possible the launching of the first wine monovarietal, to base of Caíño white, to world-wide level. “The interest by the Caíño arises as a result of the knowledge of his excellent quality, offering us in the monovarietal ‘The Sea' aromas of exotic fruit and nuances herbáceos fine. In the palate, his strong point, appreciate a surprising body, with strength, persistence and fine acidity that facilitates his good aging in bottle. In another of our wines, the ‘Terras Gauda', 12% of Caíño provides him untuosidad, good structure and redondez to the mix”.

The project, between the Upper Council of Scientific Investigations (CSIC) and Cellars Terras Gauda , has made possible to select and isolate a microorganism typical of Caiño white, certified genetically by means of test of DNA to guarantee the manufacturing of only wines. “The collaboration arose, as in previous occasions, of the research of a deep knowledge of our varieties, with the end to improve our final product, the wine. In this case concrete, the CSIC proposed us the study of the microorganism for the Albariño and we pose the inclusion of the Caíño white”, rememora Emilio Rodríguez. Now, the technical department of Terras Gauda will serve of this microrganismo, already patented, to realizar a fermentation maloláctica partial and control the process of natural form. This will contribute to diminish the acidity, increase the untuosidad of the wine and intensify his flavour without losing the character of only variety neither alter the final result.

Once isolated of the Caíño white, of Cellars Terras Gauda, the microorganism láctico ecotípico investigated in the Centre gave Recerca Per L'Enologia of Asti (CRA-ENO) Italian, during a year. The selection and the genetic test carried out in said centre. Emilio Rodríguez explains the process: “In Asti could check that adding microorganisms lácticos commercial to our Caíño White was not possible to realizar the fermentation maloláctica. However, the isolated own microorganism of the Caíño realizar the fermentation in perfect conditions, reducing the acidity of the wine, contributing untuosidad and preserving the own aromas of the variety, what allowed his patent”.

From his starts, in Cellars Terras Gauda plant Caíño white, what shows his interest in recovering this variety. Seven years backwards, already planted 12 new hectares of this type of grape thinking in his wine monovarietal ‘The Sea'. “Sure enough, all investigation on the Caíño White, in the field vitivinícola, help to know better his behaviour and is a tool more to contribute to his recovery, avoiding like this his disappearance”, matiza. Nowadays, they allocate 20 hectares to the plantation of this variety. “Although the viticultores of the zone –continues– recognise his incomparable quality, have to take into account that the difficulties for his crop did that it was about to to disappear. From Terras Gauda can say proud that recover this autochthonous variety. Since we initiate our plantations in the year 1989 already bet by this variety, accompanied of the Albariño and Loureiro (another autochthonous variety) that they are those that compose our wine ‘Terras Gauda”.

The following step will be the extension of this investigation, moving, according to the technical director of Cellars Terras Gauda, the positive results in laboratory to greater volumes of wine and checking that the answer of the microorganism is the same. In what they have of these results, will be able to have of the microorganism for his use in his wine ‘The Sea'. A process that could initiate in the term of a year.

“Think that this full stop began already with our first project of collaboration with the CSIC, the one of Selection clonal of Albariño 11 years ago; it strengthened afterwards with ours first patent of an autochthonous yeast, pertinent of our viñedo of Albariño and strengthens with this third patent of the isolated own microorganism of the Caíño”, clears. From the group bodeguero insist in that, thanks to these successful lines of investigation have attained to deepen in the scientific knowledge of the varieties of the zone to level vitivinícola. “This has influenced in a continuous improvement in the quality differentiated of our wines, resaltando even more his singularity. Without this scientific knowledge would not achieve to extract all the potential that ours varieties treasure”.

And the collaboration between the organism and the group bodeguero continues. In these moments, have presented the first Agreement of Scientific Culture, that signs the CSIC with a company, Terras Gauda, for the first time in our country. Also they plan a mutual project that give to know to the Caíño White, from the viticultural field and enológico.